Fitting Axminsters...Wiltons and especially hand tufted cloths like Ti-Ping...years ago ... I always grippered either side of the door bar ..and if we had 48oz felt ..we'd gripper under the door bar with a couple of rows of gripper to build up... flatten the pins with a hammer fit the bar on top...used to do a lot of woven 27 and 36 inch cloths in areas of high traffic doorways was always the biggest wear point....remember the Royal Opera House in Covent Garden...27 inch Hugh Mackay carpet ....was about 18,000 yards so there were three teams on the job. My team used this method and copydexed every cut into the bars. A year after it opened there was a call back ..the carpet coming out of the solid brass trims ...but not in any of the areas we fitted. Had two fitters there on nightwork at double NPO rate for almost a month de snagging what the other fitters did.
Years ago, I saw you on You Tube for the first time encouraging fitters to position gripper on the front of winders and landing drops in order to tuck the carpet neatly around the edges, and I started doing them that way and immediately noticed the improvement in how they looked as opposed to turning the carpet. So when I saw you raising your bars the other day I knew straight away that this would be my new method as I could instantly see the benefit even without you having to explain it. These are simple tips, but they improve the visual aspect of the fitting massively, as well as the effectiveness of the fitting. Thanks Sal. Remember me? I gate crashed one of your jobs in Brixton a few years ago when I drove past and saw your vans on a job.
@@randywl8925 In the UK we call irregular shaped stairs that go round corners winders. Typically a 'kite' shaped step with two triangular shaped steps either side of it. Over the years I've learned alot of American terms in the flooring industry that we don’t use over here, but I eagerly await to hear your name for winders.😁
Have you done a demonstration with tucking woven loop pile carpet against ceramic tile? I'm tucking in 4 doorways to tile. My tackstrip is positioned 5/16" away from the tile. The carpet is 5/16" thick. The top of the tackstrip sets about 1/16 " lower than the tile. If I position the tackstrip closer to the tile, the carpet makes a sharper bend into the gully and the grinning worse. There was an intentional gap left when the plywood was installed, so there is a lot of room to tuck the carpet edge down into.... I can cut the carpet 3/8" long and still tuck that much into the gully. Im doubled my 3/4" wide tackstrip along the tile edge, all walls and around door casings. 40 oz wool pad is being used. Metal or other trims will not be allowed in this very nice 2nd home. You guys are great. I love your attention to detail. 👍
I just wish we had those in the states. Doorway seams have a tendency to be noticeable, and the chances of wrinkles increase. Also, we got no different pin sizes in tackless. Thick pads tower over it. You guys on that side of the pond still abide by quality over quantity.
Thanks for you comment, you’ll be surprised there is a number of people that just do it for the £. However quality as you said Is very important! I’m sure where you’re there should be different type of grippers ?
Excellent demo. technically correct. Additionally, if using 12mm underlay you should raise gripper rods on ply - but how many `carpet butchers ' will do this? Like your vids. illustrating TOP END installation, setting new standards.
I really like this! We don’t have doorways bars here in the states, but typically, I put a piece of gripper in front of my clampdown metal for this same reason. Love your work hope you and the crew have a solid day 👍
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for your feedback We have a video coming out this Sunday on seamed doorways. More your type of style. Would be nice to hear your feed back 😉
Thank you for this, I have just been playing around with this myself (mainly to reduce the gap under the door). Interesting you go with 6mm, I have tried 9mm and feels a bit high (10mm underlay). 👍
the metal spikes on the door bars crush down in time when you walk on them , if the door bar is raised the carpet will come out easy , with the bar fitted direct the only grip the carpet has is via the arc going into the top part , only better fix is fitting a standard gripper in front of the bar & cutting underlay to it
I miss door trims! Moved to aus 9 years ago and its all seams in doorways no doubles! The knaplocks are alot higher and you have to tap down with a mallet and no Z bars either 😢
You got all the previous comments because UK boys don't know how to install, never used a door bar in my life but I would definitely raise it like that, the profile was horrible without the shim
Crap,I just laid a small piece of carpet for the first time and I did wonder about this but all of the videos I watched never said to dp this until just seeing yours now 🤦♂️
Fitting Axminsters...Wiltons and especially hand tufted cloths like Ti-Ping...years ago ... I always grippered either side of the door bar ..and if we had 48oz felt ..we'd gripper under the door bar with a couple of rows of gripper to build up... flatten the pins with a hammer fit the bar on top...used to do a lot of woven 27 and 36 inch cloths in areas of high traffic doorways was always the biggest wear point....remember the Royal Opera House in Covent Garden...27 inch Hugh Mackay carpet ....was about 18,000 yards so there were three teams on the job. My team used this method and copydexed every cut into the bars. A year after it opened there was a call back ..the carpet coming out of the solid brass trims ...but not in any of the areas we fitted. Had two fitters there on nightwork at double NPO rate for almost a month de snagging what the other fitters did.
Years ago, I saw you on You Tube for the first time encouraging fitters to position gripper on the front of winders and landing drops in order to tuck the carpet neatly around the edges, and I started doing them that way and immediately noticed the improvement in how they looked as opposed to turning the carpet.
So when I saw you raising your bars the other day I knew straight away that this would be my new method as I could instantly see the benefit even without you having to explain it.
These are simple tips, but they improve the visual aspect of the fitting massively, as well as the effectiveness of the fitting.
Thanks Sal.
Remember me? I gate crashed one of your jobs in Brixton a few years ago when I drove past and saw your vans on a job.
Hey man. How could I forget you 😂. I’m glad you’re making benefit of our tips. There shall me more to come !!
As an American looking for answers that Google refuses to provide, can you help me out. What's a winder?
@@randywl8925 In the UK we call irregular shaped stairs that go round corners winders. Typically a 'kite' shaped step with two triangular shaped steps either side of it. Over the years I've learned alot of American terms in the flooring industry that we don’t use over here, but I eagerly await to hear your name for winders.😁
@errolbrown3025 pie stairs, like-a-slice-a pepperoni pizza. 😁
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 50 years of owning houses and never seen a fitter do that.
Definite the way to go , cheers.
Gives the carpet a chance to grip and at the end of the day it looks so much better especially on thicker carpet
Yes sir you’re completely right. Thanks for your comment 👊
What’s the better method for longevity and reliability to attach 2 pieces of carpet - door bar or glue strip?
Have you done a demonstration with tucking woven loop pile carpet against ceramic tile? I'm tucking in 4 doorways to tile.
My tackstrip is positioned 5/16" away from the tile. The carpet is 5/16" thick.
The top of the tackstrip sets about 1/16 " lower than the tile.
If I position the tackstrip closer to the tile, the carpet makes a sharper bend into the gully and the grinning worse.
There was an intentional gap left when the plywood was installed, so there is a lot of room to tuck the carpet edge down into.... I can cut the carpet 3/8" long and still tuck that much into the gully.
Im doubled my 3/4" wide tackstrip along the tile edge, all walls and around door casings.
40 oz wool pad is being used.
Metal or other trims will not be allowed in this very nice 2nd home.
You guys are great. I love your attention to detail. 👍
I just wish we had those in the states. Doorway seams have a tendency to be noticeable, and the chances of wrinkles increase. Also, we got no different pin sizes in tackless. Thick pads tower over it. You guys on that side of the pond still abide by quality over quantity.
Thanks for you comment, you’ll be surprised there is a number of people that just do it for the £. However quality as you said Is very important!
I’m sure where you’re there should be different type of grippers ?
Excellent demo. technically correct. Additionally, if using 12mm underlay you should raise gripper rods on ply - but how many `carpet butchers ' will do this? Like your vids. illustrating TOP END installation, setting new standards.
Awesome video... thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge... it's very appreciated
I really like this! We don’t have doorways bars here in the states, but typically, I put a piece of gripper in front of my clampdown metal for this same reason. Love your work hope you and the crew have a solid day 👍
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for your feedback
We have a video coming out this Sunday on seamed doorways. More your type of style. Would be nice to hear your feed back 😉
😂do you tap the spikes down?
Thank you for this, I have just been playing around with this myself (mainly to reduce the gap under the door). Interesting you go with 6mm, I have tried 9mm and feels a bit high (10mm underlay). 👍
I keep odd lvt planks in my van for this. Looks great 👌
makes so much sense, great idea, thank you
You’re very welcome 😊
Good vid, thanks
Very good, and informative. Is that the common way in the uk? Do you guys ever seam the doorways together?
Yes we do seam doorways. Well we do in trim and tuck anyways.
Check our recent video 3 parts on seaming door ways.
Carpet fitter for 30 years, I put gripper in front of the bar and stretch on to it before cutting and tucking
Does it not wear quicker like this?
This will case a wear point - which is why we avoid this.
the metal spikes on the door bars crush down in time when you walk on them , if the door bar is raised the carpet will come out easy , with the bar fitted direct the only grip the carpet has is via the arc going into the top part , only better fix is fitting a standard gripper in front of the bar & cutting underlay to it
I do exactly the same as you but buy raised base singles and use the wedges for z bars
Great job ! I’m happy to hear you do the same 👊
I get it - 30 years fitting - is it wildy realistic.
We think it's essential 🙏
They always used to come with ridges on the back .
To raise them .
Raise the bar every time to match underlay.
100% agree with you Jason !
I miss door trims! Moved to aus 9 years ago and its all seams in doorways no doubles! The knaplocks are alot higher and you have to tap down with a mallet and no Z bars either 😢
Sounds more challenging 😰
@TrimTuckCarpets yeh it can be and carpets are pretty much all 3.66 wide seams everywhere
@@elad1367 I feel for you. But I’m sure you do a seamless job 👏
@@TrimTuckCarpets weather is nice but
bring em on i say
You got all the previous comments because UK boys don't know how to install, never used a door bar in my life but I would definitely raise it like that, the profile was horrible without the shim
Lots of doors to cut
Crap,I just laid a small piece of carpet for the first time and I did wonder about this but all of the videos I watched never said to dp this until just seeing yours now 🤦♂️